Walter Van Beirendonck for Scapa white ‘Formula 1’ mini skirt with patches€39.00 Read more
Comme des Garçons Black trousers with tiered skirt on the front — AD 2008€189.00 Read more
Maison Martin Margiela black oversized skirt tailored outwards with split zipper — fall 2005€169.00 Add to cart
A.F. Vandevorst black leather trousers spraypainted white — fall 2015 performance€599.00 Add to cart
Ann Demeulemeester orange waistcoat with oversized cargo pockets — spring 2004€109.00 Add to cart
Ann Demeulemeester pine green biker jacket with double zippers — spring 2003€169.00 Read more
Ann Demeulemeester beige jumper with hand dip-dye of a blue ombre — fall 2012€129.00 Add to cart
Ann Demeulemeester black sheer trousers with tapered legs — early 1990’s€109.00 Read more
About the Ann Demeulemeester fall 2004 collection
As Ann Demeulemeester’s show drew to a close, it seemed the unthinkable was about to happen. The collection, shown to a sweeping, dramatic, classical score, had not a whisper (or, more appropriately, a wail) from the Belgian designer’s favorite chanteuse, Patti Smith. But then the orchestra’s strings faded—and the opening chords of Smith’s Horses rang out.
Expecting Demeulemeester to abandon Smith would be akin to seeing her show bright, pretty florals: It’s just never going to happen. She has laid claim to a dark, gothic sensibility that variously embraces military uniforms, slouchy tailoring, and raw-edged shearlings and furs mixed with tough leathers.
There was a lot that was good: narrow-shouldered, high-collared coats that buttoned on the side and oversized blousons that were based on the trench, the volume kept under control by their low-slung belts. And there were some wonderful surprises: a flash of silver from chain mail minis layered with big sweaters and tight pants; glossy leather gauntlets whose cuffs were lavished with fur; and a color palette that strayed beyond black to include chestnut brown, soft vanilla, and winter white—the latter at its best in a glazed-leather trenchcoat.
About Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester is a Belgian designer, graduating from the Royal Academy of fine arts in Antwerp.
In 1986, Ann Demeulemeester went to London during fashion week to showcase her collection together with fellow graduates Walter van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee.
From this point on, they would be known as the iconic ‘Antwerp Six’.
Ann Demeulemeester is known for her love of black. Her style draws influence from goth, punk, bohemian and Japanese subcultures.
Her collections are often described as dark, funerary, yet poetic and very emotional. In 2000 for example, she designed a collection from a sheer materials, embroidered with quote’s from Patti Smith’s ‘Woolgathering’.
Typical Ann Demeulemeester silhouettes are very elongated, decorated with feathers, chains. She is also known for her iconic heavy boots, her triple lace boots and the lace-up gladiator sandals being street style photographers’ favorites.
She left her brand in 2013, meaning that only vintage Ann Demeulemeester clothing is still designed be her.