Maison Martin Margiela artisanal purple military shirt — fall 1995

Size: unknown

Armpit to armpit: 40 cm

Sleeves: 57 cm

Length: 61 cm






Purple military style women’s shirt

2 front pockets

Reworked garment, originally a found mens’ military shirt

Original label from the French military: C.S.V. Cerizay 1989

Margiela line 0: artisanal garment

Unique item, worn on the fall 1995 runway:

A red circus tent in the Bois de Boulogne. Sixty-nine women, wearing cotton muslin veils obscuring their faces, pass among the seated puvlic. A record of Rossini opera music is played over and over again. Silhouettes of black and dark colors evolve, as the women pass, into outfits of combined pinks and fuchsias. When the last silhouette has passed the music changes to radio hit played loudly. All of the women come out again. They wear the same outfits without their veils, smiling, their hair is loose and the are holdingmany helium filled fuchsia ballons.


“Since its beginnings in 1988, Maison Martin Margiela has been gathering garments, accessories, used and sometimes new objects across the globe. That these garments and objects may be given a second life whilst respecting and maintaining the traces of the passage of time and use remains one of the keystones of the creative expression of the Maison. Each garment is reworked entirely by hand in the atelier of the Maison in Paris. The complexity and specificity of each step of such a creative process of transformation will naturally limit the quantity of garments produced. The individuality of the materials used to create each garment ensures that each is as unique as that which was used to create it. The label, numbered 0, is sewn, embossed or stamped depending on the material used to create the garment or accessory.” “Artisanal” pieces are now shown as haute couture collections.”


Condition: 3,5/5

Faint mark under the collar



About Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela is a Belgian designer, graduating from the Royal Academy of fine arts in Antwerp.


He is often mistaken as one of the ‘Antwerp Six’.

At the time when Ann Demeulemeester,Walter van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee were showcasing in London, Margiela was already working for Jean Paul Gaultier.


Martin Margiela stayed away from the public eye, remaining backstage after his shows and only allowing press to contact hem via fax.


Maison Martin Margiela’s discreet brand label consists of a blank piece of cloth or with the numbers 0-23. The trademark is attached with four small, white stitches, visible on the outside on unlined garments. The concept behind this was so the tag could be cut out, making the garment anonymous like it’s creator.


Margiela’s work is highly conceptual; a large piece of his repertoire is playing with conventions and recycling. Influenced by Rei Kawakubo, he works with deconstructed garments and frayed edges, nevertheless are his garments perfectly tailored. A lot of his work also includes trompe-l’oeil, a reference to René Magritte.


Martin Margiela was appointed as a Guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in 2010. His work is more often talked about as ‘art’ rather than fashion.


His most iconic piece is his tabi boot, Margiela’s interpretation of Japanese split-toe tabi socks.


Margiela left his eponymous label in 2009, leaving the creative staff to continue the collection for several seasons. In 2014 John Galliano was appointed as new head designer.

The only way now get an original Martin Margiela piece, is only by buying vintage Margiela clothing.

Additional information

Weight 1.2 kg
Womens size