Maison Martin Margiela navy oversized caban with cigarette shoulders — fall 1990

Size: (intentionally very oversized fit, measured when buttoned)

I48 D44 F44 GB16 USA14

Shoulder to shoulder: 40 cm

Armpit to armpit: 57 cm

Length: 69 cm

Sleeves: 79 cm



75% wool

25% polyamide

Lining: 100% cotton

Ties: 100% viscose



Dark navy caban

Cigarette shoulders

Curved sleeves semi-detached from the bodice

The grey lining is visible through slits between the body and the sleeves

Extremely oversized fit

Inner ties to tighten the coat and create a tailored back with XL darts

The ties were used on the runway to hang up skirts

When tied, the front will close against itself

Double breasted model with black buttons

Can be closed in a normal way with oversized fit

Curved sleeves

Two large front pockets on the hips

Two slit breast pockets

Trenchcoat-style lapels

Back flap

Fully lined

Worn in a longer wool version and cotton version on the fall 1990 runway


Condition: 3,5/5

Good condition with moderate wear, some moth holes were restored by restoration company Co Conservation

SKU: MMMNOCA Category:


About Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela is a Belgian designer, graduating from the Royal Academy of fine arts in Antwerp.


He is often mistaken as one of the ‘Antwerp Six’.

At the time when Ann Demeulemeester,Walter van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee were showcasing in London, Margiela was already working for Jean Paul Gaultier.


Martin Margiela stayed away from the public eye, remaining backstage after his shows and only allowing press to contact hem via fax.


Maison Martin Margiela’s discreet brand label consists of a blank piece of cloth or with the numbers 0-23. The trademark is attached with four small, white stitches, visible on the outside on unlined garments. The concept behind this was so the tag could be cut out, making the garment anonymous like it’s creator.


Margiela’s work is highly conceptual; a large piece of his repertoire is playing with conventions and recycling. Influenced by Rei Kawakubo, he works with deconstructed garments and frayed edges, nevertheless are his garments perfectly tailored. A lot of his work also includes trompe-l’oeil, a reference to René Magritte.


Martin Margiela was appointed as a Guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in 2010. His work is more often talked about as ‘art’ rather than fashion.


His most iconic piece is his tabi boot, Margiela’s interpretation of Japanese split-toe tabi socks.


Margiela left his eponymous label in 2009, leaving the creative staff to continue the collection for several seasons. In 2014 John Galliano was appointed as new head designer.

The only way now get an original Martin Margiela piece, is only by buying vintage Margiela clothing.

Additional information

Weight 0.9 kg
Womens size