Maison Martin Margiela permanently creased sweater — fall 1990

Size: unknown

Armpit to armpit: 46 cm

Length: 48 cm

Sleeves: 58 cm



52% cotton, 48% acrylic



Crinkled fabric, should not be ironed to keep the design

Blank label, mainline catwalk piece

Fall 1990 (Margiela’s third show)

Collector’s item: this garment was featured in MOMU’s Maison Martin Margiela 20 exhibition


Excerpt from Margiela street special edition book:

“The first linings worn as garments, waiter’s aprons with permanent creases. Torn knitwear and T-shirts, skirts with curtain details and long garments in fake crocodile. 1940’s inspired overcoats and fake fur stoles. Evening accessories, such as boas, corsages of faded flowers and heavy sweaters edged with silver lurex thread. Garments made from perforated felt that mould to and move with the body.”


Condition: 2,5/5

Lot’s of pilling on the fabric, slightly stained under armholes

SKU: MMMGCS Category:


About Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela is a Belgian designer, graduating from the Royal Academy of fine arts in Antwerp.


He is often mistaken as one of the ‘Antwerp Six’.

At the time when Ann Demeulemeester,Walter van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee were showcasing in London, Margiela was already working for Jean Paul Gaultier.


Martin Margiela stayed away from the public eye, remaining backstage after his shows and only allowing press to contact hem via fax.


Maison Martin Margiela’s discreet brand label consists of a blank piece of cloth or with the numbers 0-23. The trademark is attached with four small, white stitches, visible on the outside on unlined garments. The concept behind this was so the tag could be cut out, making the garment anonymous like it’s creator.


Margiela’s work is highly conceptual; a large piece of his repertoire is playing with conventions and recycling. Influenced by Rei Kawakubo, he works with deconstructed garments and frayed edges, nevertheless are his garments perfectly tailored. A lot of his work also includes trompe-l’oeil, a reference to René Magritte.


Martin Margiela was appointed as a Guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in 2010. His work is more often talked about as ‘art’ rather than fashion.


His most iconic piece is his tabi boot, Margiela’s interpretation of Japanese split-toe tabi socks.


Margiela left his eponymous label in 2009, leaving the creative staff to continue the collection for several seasons. In 2014 John Galliano was appointed as new head designer.

The only way now get an original Martin Margiela piece, is only by buying vintage Margiela clothing.

Additional information

Weight 1.2 kg
Womens size