Going against the main 1980s aesthetic of broad shoulders and tight dresses, he designed oversized loose silhouettes, mostly in black and white.
About his collections almost always referencing menswear Yohji Yamamoto said: “‘I think that my men’s clothes look as good on women as my women’s clothing […] When I started designing, I wanted to make men’s clothes for women.”
He is considered to be a master tailor, alongside those such as Madeleine Vionnet and is known for his avant-garde tailoring featuring Japanese design aesthetics.
Yamamoto often stated that when he died, the brand dies with him.
Yohji Yamamoto currently has 6 main lines. Yohji Yamamoto (women/men), Yohji Yamamoto pour homme (men’s line), Y’s (women’s diffusion label), Y-3 (adidas collaboration), Yohji Yamamoto +NOIR and S’yte (online-only T-shirt and accessories line).